27 Jun Hiking Cerro La Gaita
Hiking Cerro La Gaita
Before hiking Cerro La Gaita with a few friends and our guide, Yisel, I had to pull out the packing list in my notes to make sure I had everything in my backpack, including the kitchen sink. It had been seven months since my last hike, and this time, I was a little nervous.
This hike would be a longer day hiking in the wet and, most likely, very muddy jungle. Chrisse, known in our Coronado, Panama community for organizing hikes and outdoor adventures, has lived and loved all things Panama for thirty seven years. She is a retired art teacher dabbling in the idea of possibly teaching adult art classes in Panama, an amazing artist specializing in contemporary mixed media paintings on canvas, an advanced scuba diver, and is extremely passionate about the country. Her purpose both on her paintings and with her hiking and diving groups is to show her vision of nature. The jungle rejuvenates her soul and lifts her spirit, and she easily spreads her enthusiasm and eagerness for nature’s beauty with those around her. With the pandemic still hitting Panama hard, she was able to gather a few friends together for a moderately challenging hike in the mountains of Panama.
Allison and her group hiking Cerro La Gaita
The four of us met in Coronado, drove approximately thirty minutes on a paved road (Las Lajas area) and picked up Yisel. A 4 x4 vehicle is a must for this hike. The next fifteen minutes of driving was on a dirt road with loose rock, steep ascents, steep descents and winding curves. This was a piece of cake for our driver, Chrisse, or so she made it seem. We were met on the dirt road by workmen explaining that they were expanding and improving the road for those that live in the surrounding area. This is one very good reason why it is wise to have a guide on some of the hikes in Panama. If you don’t speak or understand the language, you will not understand what a chance encounter with a road crew man is telling you. Chrisse is fluent in Spanish (and we had Yisel), but the three of us did understand him enough to be saying that he wanted us to wait while he cleared the road of the rocks ahead.
We arrived at the parking space (only one) which is a driveway of sorts with a house, clothes hanging on a clothesline and many banana and orange trees. Yisel had suggested we have alcohol with us during her “pep and prep” talk of the hike. We showed her we had hand sanitizer (due to the pandemic, we all carry it wherever we go now), but Chrisse brought out a large spray bottle of alcohol. When we asked why the alcohol, Yisel told us it would come in handy after we had used our hands grabbing muddy rocks, roots, trees or just for finding our balance on the ground. We all understood what it meant to crawl up, and sometimes down, a mountain, literally. To us, this was simply hiking.
We started our hike at close to nine am by entering a densely overgrown area of different grasses with a small trail cut through it. While walking this dry dirt trail, we came upon more large banana trees, fluttering butterflies and a low tunnel of tall and twisted grass.
The tunnel was almost cave-like in nature, but there was an opening at the end. This is where we had to crouch down very low. Backpacks were getting caught in the curved branches above our backs. We snaked our way through the tunnel, walked on dry rocks to avoid getting our feet wet in the small river, and then started the incline up the mountain.
With a two hour climb to what would bring us to a wooden platform in and above the clouds, the dryness of our shoes became ladened with mud. The trail was covered in wet leaves. Good hiking shoes with grip will help to grab the mud. We climbed over fallen trees, dodged a barbed wire fence that separates private property, stopped to take pictures of all the budding flowers, huge leaves, and paw prints belonging to “big cats” according to Yisel (jaguar, puma?). We were also told to watch for “flying trees”. What Yisel meant (or the translation) was that with the wind, there could be loose branches flying around at times.
After two hours (this would be less without picture taking), we arrived at wooden stairs that led to a large wooden platform. We were at close to 4,000 feet in elevation. We were in the clouds with just a glimpse of a view ahead of us. Heavy wind blew us here and there on the platform. Yisel told us there would be more chance of a clear day in late March and April. We enjoyed a much needed water and snack break that came with quite a bit of chilly and misty air. Some sought a bit of shelter from the wind and cold by leaving the platform and sitting on the steps below. It is a good idea to wear layers for this hike. Soon after snacking, we started the descent, and, with the clouds clearing and thinning out somewhat, we could see we were above the trees. The scenery changes quickly on the platform. We saw tall trees ahead of us, and there was now a heavy mist of rain. I only realized how wet it was when I noticed my friend’s ponytail was very damp. Another good idea is to wear a tight fitting hat, baseball cap and/or poncho.
It was amazing to be above the trees! When we left the platform, we walked down steep staircases of wooden steps (some not so sound) which then changed to solid concrete steps that had a railing. After walking a few of the concrete steps, Yisel called after us. We needed to duck under the railing and head back into the jungle. We took the very muddy and slippery trail (that heavy mist had certainly soaked things) for another two hour trek to the car. We had been warned by Yisel to watch what trees we grabbed, because many have spiky grasses on them. We used our poles to stabilize our descent. We happily saw the car after being in the jungle for close to four hours. Thankfully, we all had a change of shoes and towels to clean up some of the mud. Yisel grabbed oranges off the nearby tree and gave us a fresh treat.
One thing to note here is that the workmen clearing the road four hours earlier did not realize that while they were moving dirt on one side of the hill, they had caused three substantial size boulders (read this to mean boulders too large for five women to push them off the mountain) to roll down the other side of the hill settling in the road and in our way. Yisel raced up the hill and found the apologetic crew. They worked quickly and efficiently with a large bucket excavator to move the boulders. Another adventure in Panama!
This hike is recommended with a guide. There are two turnoff points in the jungle that were overgrown areas, and we would have certainly not known the correct way to the platform. There is also another entrance through Altos del Maria that has the hiker walking up many more concrete steps before the wooden steps to the platform. Whatsapp numbers are given below for hiking guides, Yisel and Ivan. They both speak Spanish. Our group gave this moderately challenging hike a Level 6 due to the slipperiness on the descent. If the path is dry, and shoes are unable to grip the solid dirt, we would give this hike a Level 7.
6833-9027
Yisel Sanchez Guia La Laguna Area
6618-2714
Ivan Castilla Grajales Guia