13 Apr Diablicos Sucios of Panama
By Natalie Warner
Panama has a lot of festivals and celebrations. An upcoming one in June is Corpus Christi (Latin for body of Christ). It occurs 60 days after Holy Week. An iconic aspect of Corpus Christi are the appearances of the diablos sucios, dirty devils, and diablos limpios, clean devils. Celebrations featuring these devils occur throughout Panama with some of the most well-known ones being in Chitré, Colón, and La Chorerra.
Corpus Christi is a religious celebration that is more than just about the battle of good and evil. It is about passing oral history from generation to generation through music and dance. This tradition is said to have almost been lost at one point.
The festival’s roots are essentially about Catholics scaring non-Catholics into conformity (remember, estimates suggest up to 70% of the country’s population identifies as Catholic). Clean devils are those who are baptized while dirty devils are unbaptized. The celebration lasts over a week, begins 60 days after Palm Sunday, and is celebrated on a different day each year. Corpus Christi will begin June 29 this year. This is also the time when the most animated aspects of the family-friendly celebration begin.
Corpus Chrsti dates back to Colonial Panama. The specific dates are unknown. It has European roots, which is understandable considering how big of a cultural impact Spain had on Panama. Like Carnival, each town has their own version of the celebration. Colón for example is said to incorporate a lot of elements from Africa. This comes as little surprise due to the population of “Afro-Colonials” (those brought to Panama to build the Panama Canal). The festivals in Chitré and Chorerra are said to have more of a European influence.
Diabolicos sucio Portabello
Every festival tends to incorporate similar elements. The celebration begins with El Torrito, the little bull, who hides among the streets and tries to entice children to chase him. Fireworks, drummers and pipers going off in the morning commence the start of Corpus Christi. Spectators catching the start of the festivities can be seen drinking coffee and eating pastries. The battle of the devils begins between the clean and dirty devils. It ends with all of the devils including the Devil himself being baptized.
It’s all in the Name
There is a lot of religious symbolism that can go into a discussion about clean versus dirty, especially in relation to baptism. However, that is not the only reason they are called dirty devils. The original cotton costumes were dyed using red from achiote and black from charcoal. Dancers also carried an animal bladder which usually stank. The bladder served (and still does) as a percussion instrument. After the dancers sweat off the colors would run off making them look dirty. The stinky bladder probably contributed to the name as well.
Another traditional aspect of the dirty devil costume is the use of castanets (a clacking percussion instrument) and bells. Dyed macaw feathers also make up the traditional costume.
The masks
Making the masks is a tradition that was nearly lost at one point despite being passed down from generation to generation. The masks can be fairly labor intensive and may be made by multiple family members. Although the process may vary slightly, most tend to follow a similar technique.
Clay molds are covered in either petroleum jelly or pork fat. This barrier prevents the actual mask from sticking onto the mold. Layers consisting of paper and glue made with water and flour are used. Most masks have 3-6 layers. The dried mask is then taken off the mold. Teeth, antennas, and horns are added. The final step is to paint the mask. Colors vary depending on the owner’s request, the type of devil, and/or the crafter. These masks can cost up to $600, depending on the intricacy.
Devils may be the most common mask seen in the celebrations, but they are not the only ones. Animals are also popular. The process to make these masks is the same as crafters who make the masks for devils.
Diablo Cucuás
Diablo Cucuás is a festival from San Miguel Centro, 2 hours from Penonmé, Cocle. San Miguel Centro is in a very rural part of Panama. Their costumes are considered to be some of the most unique in Panama for Corpus Christi.
Masks can take months as they are made from bark of the cucuás tree. They look quite different compared to the diablos sucios/limpios that most people are used to seeing. Dancers wear white cotton outfits which tend to have patterns inspired by natural influences rather than the typical striped clothing.
Fearing it to be a lost tradition, a law was enacted that created the Festival de la Danza de los Cucuá (festival of the Cucuá dancers). The date was originally on Corpus Chrsti in June. However, the rainy season and the town’s rural location and rough terrain made this less than ideal. The festival is now moved to March.
Not feeling up for the drive? Fear not! Dancers go to Penonmé for Corpus Christi.
Not Just for Corpus Christi
Diablos sucios are typical for Corpus Christi. They also make an appearance in Carnival and are a big part of Panamanian folklore. Although not the highlight of Carnival, these diablos are thought to ward off evil spirits during this time. Be careful if you are in Las Tablas. Some reports state that the dirty devils get naughty and whack spectators with sticks!
Corpus Christi is another fun and family friendly Panamanian tradition. It is advised to book lodging ahead of the celebration for anyone wishing to attend and see the dirty devils themselves. The celebration is filled with music, fireworks, and history. Have you been? Tell us about it!