11 Sep Hiking Chorro El Retiro Rio Hato, Panama
By Allison Weiser Guinn
“A waterfall with a natural pool in the river bed Farallon” is how this area near Rio Hato, Panama is described in the website, Wikiloc. This website offers GPS trails that members (free to register but then a small fee to obtain the full app) can upload and share with others.
Having only embarked on three hikes in Panama so far, I did not think it best that I be the one to give input as to where our “Whatsapp Hiking Group” should investigate. But, after everyone reviewed Wikiloc, Chorro El Retiro was the decided destination.
Unfortunately, at the time of departure, we were unable to sign in to the Wikiloc app to download a more thorough driving map to El Retiro. (In Panama, there really is no such thing as a thorough driving map anyway). Fortunately, we were able to locate El Retiro using the “Waze App.” Once on the road to this small mountain town, we were then able to ask for directions. We were a group of eight in two cars driving west on the InterAmerican Highway leaving the Coronado area picking up passengers along the way and driving towards Rio Hato.
The right turn off the highway to El Retiro is approximately thirty minutes from the Coronado entrance, with another twenty minute straight drive to the parking area for our hike. The first eight miles is on paved road, with the final four miles is rough terrain on a gravel, bumpy road.
Parking Spot
Perhaps a better area to park would be at the school nearby (ample parking), and start the hike from there. Recommended especially in rainy season where there are deep ruts and potholes in the road.
Upon arrival, it rained. Bring ponchos or light rain/hiking jacket.
After walking down a very steep slope, we decided there was one way to the waterfall. We walked in that one direction only to come across a local guide who told us we were walking in the wrong direction. Group decision was to then follow our “guide.” Fifteen minutes later, we were walking down slippery steps holding onto a PVC pipe railing on our way to see the natural swimming pool.
Santiago unlocking the gate
Holding on to the railing carefully navigating the steep steps
We gave our guide a few dollars and thanked him for his services (He let us in, took our pictures and told us where to hike.) The group made the decision to hike first and swim later. Santiago told us we could hike for about ninety minutes making a complete circle and return to our starting point. We believed in Santiago and in our navigational skills. Wikiloc describes this trail as “easy” but also states it is ten miles long. Wikiloc also states the approximate time to hike is almost four hours. How this is considered easy was beyond the all of us. We were just as confused as when we started out the morning in search of El Retiro and then walking the wrong direction. However, we knew we could navigate a circle in ninety minutes.
Santiago pointed the way and we were off! We started the hike taking pictures along the way, making decisions as to which “lane” to stay in when the trail would split into a “Y.” After an hour of walking, hiking, picture taking, snacking we stopped to enjoy the beautiful views! At this point, it was decided (group effort again) to turn around, because the concern was that hour would turn into two, and we may not really make it back to Point A again before three hours. There are high grasses on the side of the trails. But the trails themselves are at times any of the following: smooth, rocky, slippery, muddy, puddled, dry, steep uphill, steep downhill, or flat.
Heigh ho, heigh ho….
Wildlife
Glorious
Once we turned ourselves around, crossed the same streams, encountered new spiders and webs, and made it safely back to the locked gate, we found Santiago. It was on his recommendation and the dark clouds looming nearby that we decided not to swim in the natural pool. Santiago stated that with the recent heavy rains, the pool had quite a current and suggested for us to return in dry season. We let Santiago know that we would use him as a guide on future hiking toursin the area. We obtained a phone number from his neighbor. We were curious about that ninety-minute circle. We also learned it will cost two dollars a person to swim in the pool.
Santiago’s House
For the information gained, the cleanliness seen, and the recommendation to return when it would be safer to swim, we would gladly pay a cover charge. We will return to El Retiro. It is a quick drive to the waterfall and natural pool, and for anyone not wanting to hike and merely swim and picnic, it does not even need to be included in the wonderful day that can be spent at Chorro El Retiro.
Hiking group 2 hours before hike