20 May El Caño Parque Arqueológico
By Alexa Hancock
In the picturesque town of El Caño, there is hidden treasure. Literally as well as figuratively. Inside the eight hectares of the El Caño Archaeological Park is a 1000-year-old burial site of the ancient Coclé people. The Coclé culture, that existed until roughly 1020 A.D, left behind a treasure trove of cultural knowledge and ancient artifacts which we are only beginning to fully explore. El Caño was first excavated in 1926, when collector Hyatt Verrill was looking for pieces for the Museum of the American Indian, Heye Foundation in New York. The ceramics, sculptures, and other artifacts that he sent to New York are now at the Smithsonian Institute in Washington D.C.
In the 1950’s, archaeologist Gerald Doyle found a human burial near one of the monolithic alignments. However, the true nature of the site began to be revealed in 1973 when the sugar company La Estrella was preparing the ground for planting sugarcane. The discovery of more human remains led Panamanian archaeologist Dr. Reina Torres de Arauz to intervene and arrange for the land that now comprises the park to be placed under government oversight. The park, as it exists today, was founded in 1979 and continues to be administered by the National Cultural Institute (INAC) which also maintains the excavation of the mound known as M3 open for public viewing.
Mound known as M3
Courtesy of Alexa Hancock and Fundación El Caño
The Rio Grande Basin of the Coclé region is well known for archeological surveys that have investigated the life and customs of pre-Columbian societies in the Neotropics. The El Caño Archeological Park, located close by the Rio Grande, is of particular importance given the presence of leaders or chiefs who accumulated a significant quantity of prestige goods that included pieces of tumbaga, gold and shell. These chiefs were head of the most complex societies in Lower Central America. The existence of a monumental archaeological site like El Caño is proof of its regional predominance in the South-Central area of the isthmus.
In 1988, Panamanian archaeologist Carlos Fitzgerald excavated additional mounds (M3 and M4). Fitzgerald concluded that El Caño is part of a multicomponent and multifunctional site and that Sitio Conte and El Caño were probably two aspects of the same regional ceremonial center. Since 2008, Panamanian archaeologists Dr. Julia Mayo and her brother Carlos Mayo, along with the Fundación El Caño team, have been conducting excavations in the El Caño park. In 2009, they discovered the tomb of an important Coclé warrior decked out in rich funeral wares and buried along with 26 individuals. He was surrounded by valuable “grave goods” such as breastplates, bracelets, belts and ear sticks, made of gold and copper, stone and bone. The artifacts found were so spectacular that an article in National Geographic Magazine (2012) entitled “The Golden Chiefs of Panama” stated that El Caño and its surrounding areas could be described as “Panama’s Valley of the Kings.”
Courtesy of Alexa Hancock and Fundación El Caño
The depth of many of the tombs limits excavation to dry season and even then pumps are often needed to remove water. To date six complete tombs have been excavated and the remains of three more tombs have been identified. Yet most of the necropolis remains to be explored and there are signs of another cemetery not far from El Caño. To uncover all the tombs just in the El Caño site, Dr. Mayo estimates it will take 196 years!
The former museum located on the site fell into disrepair and was closed, so there is currently no place to exhibit the amazing artifacts to Panamanians or tourists. Fundación El Caño is currently working on a project to reopen the former museum and renovate the bathrooms. The small building located inside the archaeological park, would be a viable location to exhibit at least some of the artifacts. Visitors and students who come to the park would be able to learn more about this important aspect of Panamanian history and culture. The longer-term plan is to renovate the park buildings and facilities so that it will be more enjoyable and educational for the people who visit and work in the park. The future park will allow for workshops in archaeology for both students and the public, and will treat the necropolis with the respect it deserves.
Anyone interested in helping fund the excavation or in bringing the museum project to fruition is welcome to contact Alexa Hancock at [email protected].
The El Caño Archaeological Park is open Tuesday through Saturday from 9:00am to 3:30pm. The admission fee is $1.00 for adults and $.25 for children. There is a Spanish speaking tour guide on site but you can go through the park without a guide. To arrive at the park, travel west on the Interamerican Highway. Once you exit Penonomé, travel 18km and turn left off the highway. Follow the road through Natá for 2km until you arrive at the park entrance. There are basic bathrooms and picnic tables there so picnic lunches are permitted. There are no other services for visitors.
Courtesy of Alexa Hancock and Fundación El Caño
Check out Fundación El Caño on their Facebook page or visit their website. If you like to have a guided tour please contact Coronado Concierge Panama.