Portobelo – A Glimpse Through History

Portobelo – A Glimpse Through History

By Robert Warner

There are few locations in Panama that hold a greater historical value to the country than Portobelo. Used as the one of the primary destinations for the Spanish Tierra Firme treasure fleet, Portobelo brought commerce, through trade fairs, and conflict, from pirates and enemies of Spain.

When you approach Portobelo from Sabanitas, Panama, you will gain full appreciation for why Christopher Columbus named the harbor Puerto Bello, or Beautiful Port. The pristine Caribbean waters captivate you, as you find the small town nestled between lush, tropical ridgelines.

Portobelo is best known for its ruins of 16th and 17th century fortifications that surround the harbor. These forts are designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, in combination with nearby Fort San Lorenzo. The two forts that are most accessible and preserved are Fort Batería Santiago, found at the entrance of the town, and Fort San Jeronimo, near the customs house. Other ruins can be spied across the bay and in the surrounding hills.

The Royal Customs House, originally built in 1630, counted and registered goods and slaves that passed through Panama. After the Spanish conquest of Peru, it is estimated the over 200,000 tons of Incan silver crossed Panama, on either the Camino Real or Camino de Cruces trails. The customs house is now used as a small museum, including replicas of Spanish rifles, cannonballs, sketches of the forts, and a coin collection. There is also a short informational video about the town available in Spanish and English.

When the Spanish galleons arrived in Portobelo, to bring gold and silver back to Spain, they were joined by merchant ships selling luxury wares and furniture. A trade fair would commence for over a month after their arrival. The success of the trade and commerce in Portobelo prompted attacks from pirates, privateers, and enemies of Spain, most notably Sir Francis Drake, William Parker, Sir Henry Morgan, and Admiral Edward Vernon. Portobello Road in London was named after Vernon’s successful assault, and Mount Vernon in Virginia was named after the Admiral himself.

Artistic depiction of Vernan’s capture of Portobelo in 1739. Photo Link

Another notable sight is the statue of Cristo Negro, Black Christ, in the Roman Catholic Iglesia de San Felipe. The wooden statue was discovered on the shore, but the origins of it are unknown. Several miracles are attributed to the statue, and pilgrimages are common among devotees. The statue is adorned with a robe that is changed twice a year and never worn again.

Other activities in the area include scuba diving or snorkeling to see the colorful and diverse flora and fauna beneath the surface, visiting isolated beaches across the harbor, hiking, horseback riding, and sailing. Portobelo has something for everybody, and it is a great way to glimpse some of the history of Panama.



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